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I need to know if anyone knows the least stressful way of putting on a muzzle. My dog will not let me get it on him, when he was young about 6-8 months we had to put one on him he had a bad ear infection and the vet could not get to his ears. The vet got it on him one two three, but my dog Dutch never let us get it on him again.
He became very aggressive. he had to have his ears done after that time several weeks later and it was an ordeal. It was very tramatic for him, having a bad ear infection they put him to sleep to clean and take care of his ears. Since then he never had another infection, thank god. But its been two years and he needs all his shots, and we can't even get near him when he sees the muzzle. The vet will not give him his shots without it. Dutch is about 120lbs. I can't blame him. Dutch does not like the vet, they said if I can't get the muzzle on Dutch they will have to put him to sleep to do his check up and rabies shot. Of course the vets office only called to tell me this today less then 24 hours till his vet appointment. Previously when he gave him his shots, we held dutchs head outside the door and he gave him his shot from behind. Now he will not. The first vet we had does not take dogs over 85 lbs she was a little bit of a thing. My dog needs his shots, we can't afford to have him put to sleep just to receive shots. We have meds the vet gave us to give him several hours prior to the visit but the last time we did that it didn't work. Help how do I get a muzzle on him any good advice. thanks ![]() ![]() |
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There are calm pills you can get to calm him and get a muzzle on easily. Foster and Smith's carry them. As large as he is he'll need 1.5 to 2 times more than they suggest for getting him muzzled and to the vet without a fight.
I would also think that having a large bottle of water and dousing him with it, when needed, would allow you to get a muzzle on...if you get the muzzle on will getting him to the vet, shots and home be easy? If not the calm pills with the water might be necessary. Last resort, I have been successful socializing 50% of agressive (biting) Doberman's with a cattle prod. Successful means that we were able to place them with in adult only families and all biting stopped. With Dutch I would poke him once...Get the muzzle on. Get him in the car. Take the prod to the vet and poke him if he is rambunctious. It is the last resort. Please let us know how it goes. Hope this helps, Herediachar |
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Our vet has prescribed pills the last time and he still freaked out, and we still couldn't get the muzzle on. Only when the vet gave him a shot to put him to sleep as if he was going to have surgery. I don't relish having to do that every time he needs his shots, that's really expensive.
He changed after the ear eposide he had, he was always calm before that, but the ear infection was so severe he even woke up under deep anisthia with 2 people holding him down, he wimpered the whole time while they worked on his ears. We have never been able to get the muzzle back on him since then. He sees it now and backs himself into a corner. He knows where he is going vet and will not let us put it on even with the pills. I really can't blame him, I'm greatful he's never had another ear infection. That changed with age and diet. I don't like the idea of a cattle prod. Thanks tho. I would like to train him not to be afraid, but at a loss he needs his shots. |
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Hi Dove,
FINALLY a sensible and HUMANE way to try to teach your dog to associate the vet and the muzzle with a positive experience. I totally agree with kuritsa18. PLEASE, please do not follow the advise of herediachar with the use of a 'cattle prod' . How on earth can someone think that causing pain to an animal that is clearly fearful help in any circumstance??![]() ![]() ![]() If you're very unlucky, you may teach your poor fearful dog to not only fear the muzzle but then address his aggression to you! Certainly not something you would want. Desensitising your dog to the muzzle/ vet using positive training techniques may take more time but it wont fracture/destroy your relationship with your dog and it will help conquer your dog's fears. I wish you the best of luck and please keep me updated with his and your progress. |
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NOTE FROM ADMINISTRATOR
Hi everyone, Angie here. The kind of training advice suggested by Herediachar (see below) is COMPLETELY UNACCEPTABLE and will not be tolerated on this forum. Training dogs is about positive reinforcement, NOT using pain, degradation, or physical violence. Yes, some dogs need a firmer hand than others, but this is achieved through the owner being responsible and intelligent enough to research the most humane and effective training techniques - it is emphatically NOT about resorting to disgusting, cruel methods like using cattle prods. We will not be tolerating any replies or threads on this forum which advocate the use of physical violence and/or the use of tools that inflict physical violence (cattle prods, prong collars, unethical use of check chains, etc). Please remember that your dog is your friend - he or she relies on you for calm, firm, assertive leadership. What kind of leader are you going to be if you can't even control your own friend without shocking him or her into submission with a cattle prod? What kind of effect do you think this is going to have on your relationship? And, even more importantly, what kind of effect do you think this is going to have on your dog?! Positive reinforcement please, people. If you feel that your dog needs extra help, all you have to do is ask us here on the forum. We're more than happy to help. Regards, Angie Quote:
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